India in Brief

What was your favourite moment?

Dom: I think my favourite moment was on the toy train. I woke from a daze and there was a boy asleep on my shoulder, I looked out of the window and all you could see was mist, trees and hills. I'd been waiting to visit those hills for a long time and they more than lived up to their reputation.

Ewan: There were many amazing moments in India. It's a country with the ability to conjure up emotions on every corner. The strongest of these I felt when visiting the Taj Mahal. It's hard to describe the effect on me it had. A moment of pure tranquility despite the tourists. Good photographic opportunities as well.

Tom: Definitely the toy train, the least touristy thing we did. Sunrise over the hills and stopping at the random stations was amazing.

George: Sitting in Jäger Fort in Jaipur was where I first felt properly relaxed. It was the first bit of quiet we'd had for about two weeks and it made such a difference. And there were monkeys. Monkeys are always good.


What was your overall impression of the country?

Dom: It's clearly a developing country that needs a lot of work. I'd probably only go back to Rajasthan, it was a bit cleaner than Mumbai and Agra and felt more like traditional India. The divide in wealth can be a bit annoying, there are people living in mansions next to people on the street, but I suppose that's what it's like in developing countries.

Ewan: My main impression of India is it's  diversity. There were no two places alike. Variety is everywhere. From the slums of Mumbai, to the dramatic heights of Shimla and the camels stomping ground in Rajasthan. All interlaced with old British infrastructure. A vast realm filled with millions of people.

Tom: A country in dire need of a bath, especially the further south you go. I like the history, some of the forts in Jaipur were great, but Agra and Delhi left a lot to be desired.

George: India is such a large country and there's so much variation in it. No two places we went were the same and I feel if we'd kept going we'd have found even more differences. Doing India in two weeks is a bit like trying to do Europe in two weeks. Just not possible.


What was the food like?

Dom: A major disappointment for me. Renowned for it's curries and spices, but none of us really found a spectacular dish anywhere. Maybe we didn't go to the right places, but with everything so dirty it can be hard to know where the right places are.

Ewan: Despite the diversity of the country the food remained more or less the same throughout. I always try to taste a bit of everything (even lamb brain curry), but even so the repetitiveness of the food was starting to grow tiresome even for me.

Tom: I thought the food was good, the tandori mixed grill was one of the best I've ever had and the lamb brain curry was a completely new taste sensation.

George: Too much spice for me. I like Indian food from time to time, but I found it hard to deal with spicy food for breakfast, lunch and dinner.


What was your opinion of the people?

Dom: A male dominated society and very money orientated. No one does anything for nothing. People can be very sweet but then they ask for a tip, and in our UK culture those two things don't go hand in hand. It can be quite annoying.

Ewan: Very friendly people but only for a price. I never really felt like I connected properly with the community in general. It's all so money orientated.

Tom: It depends on where you are. The people of Jaipur were very nice barring a few nutters. The people in Mumbai were great during the festival, but at other times they hassle you constantly. And there are always people after your money.

George: You do feel rather conspicuous walking around the big Indian cities. It's like you have a big neon sign over your head reading 'ATM'. Everybody presses you for money, and any means are acceptable. The culture just accepts that it's OK and normal to overcharge and cheat if you can get away with it. I didn't like that too much.


Do you have a tourist tip?

Dom: Never stay in hostels in India, stick to the hotels. There's no need to book in advance though, there are always decent rooms to be found everywhere.

Ewan: Try some samosas for breakfast.

Tom: They need to make 100% bacteria killing hand gel. I used my 99% all the time but you can never be totally sure you're clean.

George: Don't worry too much about the money grabbing side of life. If you go through your trip willing to spend a bit more, willing to not fight over every little coin, and willing to not feel cheated when you pay more than someone else, then you will have a much more relaxing and enjoyable trip. By all means join in and have a bit of fun bartering with the locals, but do it for fun, don't expect to get a really cheap price.


What was the scariest moment?

Dom: when we got back to Andheri station on day one and I had to get back to the hostel on a tuk tuk with a non-uniformed driver. When he started taking the backstreets and weaving in and out of the crazy traffic, at night, with people stopping us on the road to reach into the tuk tuk and beg, that was not our most comfortable journey.

Ewan: Our 9 hour drive to new Delhi from Shimla was suicidal. The roads are complete chaos.

Tom: Speeding up towards an oncoming bus on the wrong side of the road with nowhere else to go. Scary as Hell.

George: Driving in general, but specifically the drive from Shimla to Delhi. Our driver Kaka went a little mad on the mountain roads and more than once I thought we were going over the edge, or alternatively, straight into an oncoming truck. And then over the edge.



Would you go back?

Dom: Not for a long time but yes to Rajasthan.

Ewan: So much has been left uncovered on our expedition. Rajasthan was a thrilling highlight and Shimla was stunning. Both would get a return visit. However, I still found parts of India difficult to adjust to. I can't see myself visiting again in the near future.

Tom: To Jaipur and Shimla yes, but nowhere else.

George: India as a country wouldn't pull me back, but there are some cities I wouldn't mind seeing. Boating down the river Ganges to Varanasi appeals, but if I did come back I think I would concentrate my visit in just that one area. Somewhere different, not the same places again.